Keihin Carburetor Schematics Free Of Obstructions#
Keihin Carburetor Schematics Driver It Will#
Keihin Carburetor Schematics Manuals Do Not#

Changed to stock pipes.This guide is for a set of Keihin carburettors from a Honda CBR250RR MC22. Harley cv carburetor diagram 8. Carburetor Parts Stock Keihin CV modified using a DynoJet Re-calibration Kit Harley-Davidson. Proper adjustment of the airscrew can offer direct. The airscrew works with the pilot/slow speed system of the carburetor, mainly affecting the engines initial starting, idling and initial power delivery. The airscrew is a fine-tuning adjustment designed to allow the carburetor to be slightly adjusted for variances in atmospheric conditions.

Keihin Carburetor Schematics Manuals Do Not

These products include: Carburetors and Carburetor Rebuild Kits, Replacement Carburetor Jetting, Fuel Injection modulesCarburetor for GY6 50cc 100cc 18mm Keihin CVK PD18J 139QMB 139QMA Scooter. Most of them will show all of the internal jets etc, but very little of the external fittings that are between the carbs, such as springs and throttle shafts.Keihin Carburetors Diagrams Mikuni Carburetors Diagrams Mikuni Manual Jetting Assistance Sunstar Catalog Purchase Order Form Some products are not legal for sale or use in California on any pollution controlled vehicle. Note that most parts books and manuals do not show the details of the parts and assembly of the carburettors when they are separated. When disassembling your carbs, take as many photos as necessary.

It can also be done without removing it from the bike.2. 08' variance).If it needs to be adjusted, and the carb is already off the bike, the method in the factory manual is the easiest way to set the float height. There maybe some motorcycle carburettors where this is true, but for most, if you can remove the butterfly screws then you can remove the shafts.Hopefully you'll see 0.5mm above the base of the carb body, +/-1mm, (only about.

If the butterfly screws are tight, usually because they have been staked, then first, seal the carburettor to ensure that no grit can fall into the throat, and use a Dremel or similar tool to grind away the staked section of the screw. You should remove the butterfly first before attempting to loosen the nuts on the end of the shaft. Because they have a long slot to hold the butterfly, they can be easily twisted or bent. The fronts of the carbs have the silver-coloredThis is a leaking OEM seal removed from a Keihin carburettor.Removal of the throttle shafts needs to be done with great care.

Unfortunately, Keihin have staked the housing after fitting, a really dumb idea, which means that it is next to impossible to be certain of being able to successfully fit new ones. The outer seals, on carbs 1 & 4, are rubber bonded to a steel shell. More seal means greater durability. Trying to force it out can damage the butterfly and the carburettor throat.Keihins use both felt and bonded steel-rubber throttle shaft seals, We have produced two thicknesses of the felt seals because one of the seals has a deeper housing that can facilitate this.

Instead we have designed a full rubber seal, made from FKM which is commonly known by theTrade name of Viton. That is always going to be a risky proposition.After experimenting with some OEM style seals, we have decided to abandon the idea of offering thatSolution. You have to restore this to a round hole beforeFitting the seal or you will never get it in. If they didThen they would sell the parts (never going to happen). They just don't want you reconditioning their 30 year old carburettors. Not because they are stupid, ohNo, this is deliberate.

Keihin Carburetor Schematics Driver It Will

You must also have well fitting blade screwdrivers for the various jets. You must use a JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) screwdriver. The screws are JIS Cross Recessed they are NOT Phillips screws. There are no Phillips screws on a Japanese motorcycle, none! If you use a Phillips screwdriver it will cam out and damage the screw. These seals are modelled on the Mikuni versions of the same part.

We suggest either rubber grease or silicone (spray or grease). All rubber parts, with the exception of the throttle shaft seals, should be moistened with just enough lubricant to give a glossy finish. You will also need a loupe or similar to be able to examine the intricate passages and parts If removing the throttle shafts you will need a Dremel or similar.

You should also expect that small parts like springs, screws jets and washers may fall onto the floor area and that you will need to find them. You should have a clean, well lit and comfortable work area. This is meticulous work. All images in this guide follow this format, so left does not necessarily mean the left side of the image but rather the left side of the carburettor as described. Screws and throttle shafts will need to be washed in solvent to remove any traces of oil and dirt before using thread locker.For the purpose of defining left, right, and carburettors one to four, left is defined as if one was sitting on the motorcycle facing forward carburettor one, in that case, is the leftmost one. Lubricate the threads of brass jets and screws before fitting to avoid galling and seizing.

These things are an absolute pain in the arse. Learn on them first.Dowels, dowels, dowels and dowels. If you are determined to conquer this task then I suggest you buy a used set of carbs in the worst condition you can and as cheaply as possible. But the truth is that it is not easy at all. If the following guide makes it look so easy then I have done my job.

We can skip all the mundane details of taking the carbs apart. Carbs are made of a very soft alloy, so do not use hammers or blunt objects against the alloy parts Take photos before and as you disassemble. You may need to soak them for a while and be patient. If the dowels have suffered any corrosion at all it is going to make it difficult to get your carbs apart. These parts are exposed to the environment, not inside a nice oily engine.

In this image I have marked a 4 (for cylinder 4) on the bottom half of the butterfly. Begin by marking the butterflies. This is because the butterflies and shafts are very fragile and will bend easily. You must remove the butterflies before trying to remove the throttle shaft nuts.

In this image you can see the carb is clamped between the two vent housings. Don't leave any part of the screw protruding.Mount the carb securely in a vice or similar. ImportantYou have to grind them all the way down. Some Mikunis may come loose without having to grind. As always, take lots of pictures.Even if you do not wish to stake your screws you have to use a Dremel, or similar tool, to grind down the staked section of screw to make it possible to remove them. Repeat for all butterflies.

Done correctly this will enable you to exert maximum downward pressure on the screws and you will be able to remove them. This picture is just to show how that looks so you have to imagine that the carb is invisible and you will get the idea. I used a plastic wall plug.ImportantAfter grinding down the screws, you have to support the back of the shaft with a piece of solid bar as you apply pressure and try to turn the screw.

Keihin Carburetor Schematics Free Of Obstructions

This added approximately 0.015 mm to theDiameter (from 7.850 to 7.865). It looks like a new part.Another option is blasting but before any type of blasting is performed, all orifices should be sealedTo prevent blasting media entering the carb.This Mikuni carburetor has been ultrasonically cleaned and painted with a ceramic based paint byIf your metal parts are in a sorry state you could consider having them zinc platedThe Keihin shafts had what appears to be a teflon coating but as you can see in this image I lightlyPolished the shafts and had the entire part Nickel plated. This carb was cleaned with ThreeBond EngineConditioner and then finished in a small home ultrasonic cleaner. Ultrasonic cleaning has become very popular, and is the preferredMethod for cleaning of internal parts and passages. The hole is not needed for the previous step but will be needed later.Regardless of what method is chosen to clean various parts, it is important that small orifices andJets are free of obstructions. Mess this step up and you are in a very dark place.The support bar, let's call it Support Bar 1, is just a piece of steel rod with a hole in the end.

Don'tSand off the number that you marked previously. Clean the gum off the butterfly with someSteel wool and then use some 600 wet and dry to just run over the centre where the shaft sits. If your coating is still inGood condition you may be able to get just the ends plated.You need to prepare each butterfly and its matching shaft.